Tools 
Most of the tools that you will need are found in the average home tool box and garden shed. There are a few special tools that are worth getting if the project is more than a few fixtures or if you will be doing additional projects in the future. 

Hand Tools

The list of needed hand tools for most projects includes:

·     Shovel, pointed and spade.

·     Hammer

·     Screw drivers or screw gun with common and Phillips head bits

·     Electrician’s side cutters (linemen’s pliers)

·     Wire strippers

·     Crimping pliers with an assortment of connectors

·     Diagonal pliers

·     Measuring tape

·     Rubber mallet

·     Channellock (tongue & groove) pliers

·     Pocket knife

·     Safety glasses

·     Work gloves

Special Tools

A digital multi-meter is very useful for installation and trouble shooting. There are analog models still available, but they are not as easy to read. The most used functions of this tool are the volt meter and continuity tester. The volt meter allows you to know if the line voltage is 120 volts. It the voltage is higher or lower then the secondary voltage will not be 12 volts which you can also measure with the volt meter. With this tool you can directly measure the effect of voltage drop at each fixture if necessary. The continuity tester is useful for finding broken circuits and can be used to check out whether a lamp has burnt out or not. A good multi-meter can be purchased for less than $50.

For landscape lighting a small inexpensive model will do the job just fine. However if you are a landscape lighting contractor, it will pay to buy a model that will also read amperage. These meters have operating jaws that clamp around a wire and measures the load on the wire. This is very useful in trouble shooting when an overload situation is suspected. Clamp meters start at less than $50.

A small hand torch or heat gun is useful for heating shrink tube insulation onto connectors. When properly installed this type of connector will have the best resistance to physical and corrosion damage. Mini torches can be purchased for less than $40.

Staple guns are a big time saver when running wire on decks, porches, pergolas and other wooden structures. Models such as the PowerFast® StrapGun® and PowerFast® Cable Tacker are designed for stapling electrical wire without damaging the insulation. The manufacturer reports that these tools are 3.5 times faster than hammer-in staples. Cable staple guns are less than $50.

Walkway Tunnel Kit is used to bore a hole under concrete walkways and even some driveways. Use the kit with a piece of 3/4" or 1" Schedule 40 PVC hooked up to a water hose. This is a muddy operation and should be done under an expansion joint when possible to reduce the chance of the concrete cracking later. Cost for plastic kits is about five dollars. There are also power augers that do the job with less mess and faster. They are expensive but may be available at rental centers. Little Beaver is one brand of power auger that has a horizontal auger attachment.

Installation 

Like most projects, taking the time to properly install your lighting system will pay big dividends. The time and expense of maintenance and making changes will be greatly reduced. A properly installed fixture will last longer and have fewer problems. As the landscape matures or other changes take place, the lighting system can be adapted with little expense and time for re-installation.

1.   Organization. Gather all of the tools that you’ll need along with all of the system components – wire, transformer, connectors, and fixtures. Sort all of the components so that they will be easy to find and to make sure that you have everything you need. It’s better to make one trip at the beginning of the project to get a forgotten part than to make several over the course of the project.

2.   Transformer. Install the transformer in its location first. Since all circuits will terminate at the transformer it is a logical starting point. Securely mount the transformer on a solid surface with a minimum of 24” (or manufacturer’s specification) from the bottom of the transformer case and the ground. It needs to be close enough to the GFI outlet so that you do not need an extension cord. The GFI outlet should be equipped with an in-use cover. If the transformer has a photocell, make sure that it is exposed to the sun. (Extension wires are available for most photocells if needed.) Do not plug the transformer in until you are ready to test the system.

3.   Layout. Run the primary supply cable (typically 12 – 2 ) the entire length of the circuit for each circuit. Be generous allowing for extra cable at each fixture location. There’s no need to be concerned about running short. You can always start with a new piece of wire at the next to last fixture to reach the last fixture. When running the wire, be sure that you pull the wire where you want it when coming to obstacles such as trees and air conditioning units. Do not bury or staple the wire in place at this time and do not connect it to the transformer. After the wiring is run, place all of the fixtures where they will be mounted.

4.   Connection. If possible make the wiring connection between the fixture and the supply cable before mounting the fixture. This is almost always possible with fixtures located in the landscape and almost never possible with fixtures that are mounted to structures like decks, trellises and gazebos. In order to hide the wire as much as possible for these structures, you will have to route the fixture wire through holes or channels that will not let the connector pass, so the fixture. It is very important to be careful in making your connections. Most problems are related to bad connections

5.   Test. After all of the fixtures are connected, connect the supply cables to the transformer. If the transformer is equipped with a photocell, it must be covered to test the installation in daylight. If there is a timer, it must be set to an on position. When this is completed, plug in the transformer and if required, turn it on. All of your fixtures should light up. If not go to the trouble shooting page.

6.   Mount. After making sure that all of the fixtures are operating properly, mount those that have not been mounted during the connection step. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and be careful not to pinch or cut any wiring in the process of securing the fixtures. For stake mounted fixtures, be careful when driving the stake in hard ground to not damage the threads. After mounting all of the fixtures, turn them on again to make sure that the mounting process did not loosen any lamps or connections.

7.   Hide Wire. After all the fixtures have been mounted and all are working, you need to hide the wire. Neatness counts. Where the wire is in a flower bed you may want to simply cover the wire with mulch. Wires crossing turf areas need to be buried several inches to be protected from aerators, thachers and other lawn equipment. Wire running on or under structures or up trees must be secured with staples or appropriate straps.

8.   Set Transformer. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, set the timer trips so that it operates on the schedule you want. Cycle the time a few times to ensure that the trips are working properly. Set the timer to the current time and remove the photocell cover.

9.   Aiming. The system must be checked at night to make sure that it is creating the desired effect. Fixtures may have to be adjusted to make the beam of light go where intended. Some fixtures have a method for adjusting the spread and direction of the beam while others can only be moved. There may be some fixtures that are producing too much or too little light. The easiest way to fix this problem may be by changing the lamp. Lamps with higher or lower wattage or with a different beam spread may solve the problem. In some cases, you may have to add a fixture or even change to a different type of fixture.

10.  Documentation. The final step for a proper installation is often overlooked. You should gather all the documentation for the project and put it in a safe place. This includes the lighting plan, installation, maintenance, and warranty documents from the manufacturers, and a lamp schedule. The lamp schedule list the lamp model number and wattage for each fixture in your system. This documentation will prove invaluable for trouble shooting, system changes, and maintenance.

Installation Tips

Here are some of the ideas that we use for our installations that help do a better or faster job.

·   When installing deck post lights on a vinyl sleeve, drill a ½” hole where the fixture is going to be located and put a fish wire through it that goes below the deck, When you are ready to install the fixture, you simply attached the fixture wire to the fish wire and pull it down below the deck to be connected to the supply cable. The fixture will cover the hole when it is mounted to the post. For longer wire runs behind walls, through culverts, and other places with limited access, you can buy or rent an electricians fish tape. It is a coil of flat wire with a hook on the end. With a little practice it can be used to pull wires through spaces too small for you to go through.

·    If possible, leave a coil of wire that is 3’ – 5’ longer than needed to allow you to move the fixture as the landscape matures or you want to change the effect. If the fixture is in a garden cover the coil with mulch. If it is on a deck or other structure, attached the coil neatly to a joist or other framing member that is out of sight.

·   When installing the lamp into the fixture socket, spray the base of the lamp with a silicone based lubricant. This will reduce corrosion and make it easier to remove the lamp when it needs to be replaced. Years ago we didn’t have the silicone sprays and so we used petroleum jelly. The sprays are more convenient and less messy. There are antioxidant lubricants that work well also.

     Liquid Tape is effective and inexpensive to use to seal splices made with wire nuts or crimp-on connectors. We typically make up all of our splices and then go back and dip all of the connectors into the can rather than using the brush that is provided. Dipping is faster but messy. The paint remover product Goof Off is effective at removing Liquid Tape from hands and tools.

·    If the lighting system is being installed in a home that is under construction or is part of a building project there are some things that you may be able to do to make the lighting system installation easier and more attractive:

o     If you are building a new home, make sure GFI outlets are installed at every location where you might want to install a transformer. At a minimum, there should be one on the front and one on the back of the house.

o     For new construction or when a new driveway or sidewalk is being installed, have the builder place a piece of ½” or ¾” conduit under them to allow you to pass a cable under without a problem. This works with concrete, asphalt and concrete paving systems.

o     If you are building a deck or porch, run the supply cable after the framing is complete but before the decking has been applied. The same can be done with porches and gazebos with the rafters and ceiling joist. Always check with the builder prior to installing any wire to prevent a problem with the building permit or building inspections.

·   Most of the installation process can be done by a single installer; however there is one task that goes much faster if there are two people available. When burying the cable through a area of turf an extra set of hands is a big help. Using a straight edge spade, one installer creates a slit in the ground while the other installer pushes the wire into the slit. This second installer also makes sure that the wire is out of the way of the shovel so that it doesn’t get cut. This approach is fast and is a lot less damaging to the lawn than digging a trench.